If a faucet will not shut off, close the small shutoff valves under the sink by turning them clockwise. If those are stuck or the water comes from the wall, close the main valve where the water line enters the house. Then call. Nights, weekends and holidays are covered for gushing water, and same-day appointments are available for drips.
A tub faucet or valve that will not shut off
A bathtub or shower that keeps running after you turn the handle is a valve problem, not a drain problem. Inside the wall, a cartridge or stem controls the flow, and when its seals wear or mineral scale cuts into them, water slips past even in the off position. A tub spout that gushes hot water also drives up the water heater load.
Shut the water off at the main valve if the fixture has no isolation stops, which many older tubs lack. Then call. We open the access panel or the wall, remove the trim, pull the cartridge and replace it with a matching part. On some old valves, parts are no longer made and the whole valve body must be replaced, which means opening the wall.
A tub spout dripping only when the shower is on is a diverter fault, usually a small repair. A handle that spins loosely, or a shower that runs hot and cold on its own, points to a worn cartridge or a failed pressure-balancing unit. Scalding is a safety issue, so do not leave it long.
A burst or seized supply valve under the sink
The shutoff valves under a sink are small and rarely used. Over years they corrode, seize or crack, and a valve that will not turn is a trouble you find at the wrong moment. A split in the braided line or a broken stop can spray water into the cabinet.
Close the main water valve at once. Then call us. We replace the stop and the braided supply line together, since the two usually wear at the same rate. If your home has older galvanized or copper supply pipes, a valve swap can reveal corrosion further back, and we explain when a repiping conversation is warranted. A short visit often solves it, but old pipe sometimes breaks while the valve is being removed. We tell you that risk before starting.
Which valve to close first
Try the fixture stop
Turn the small oval handle under the sink clockwise until the flow stops.
Close the main shutoff
If the stop will not hold, close the main valve where the line enters the house.
Drain the lines
Open a faucet at the lowest point and one upstairs to relieve pressure.
Protect the cabinet and floor
Empty the space, lay towels and use a wet vacuum on standing water.
Faucet types, parts and what fails
Every faucet has a moving part inside, and what you see outside tells you which one.
| Faucet or fixture | Wear part | Typical symptom |
|---|---|---|
| Compression (two handles, older) | Rubber washer and seat | Drips from the spout |
| Cartridge single handle | Cartridge and O-rings | Drips or stiff handle |
| Ball style kitchen faucet | Springs, seats, O-rings | Leaks at the base |
| Ceramic disc | Disc cylinder | Drip from the spout |
| Shower valve | Cartridge or stem | Hot and cold mixing, drip from showerhead |
| Tub spout | Diverter | Water from the spout during a shower |
Kitchen and bath faucets: repair or replace
A kitchen faucet that drips from the spout or leaks at the base can usually be repaired. A cartridge swap or new O-rings often cost less than a new fixture, and many manufacturers offer repair kits. Replacement makes sense when the finish is flaking, the body is pitted or pieces are unavailable.
The city’s 2024 water quality report shows total dissolved solids between 888 and 980 mg/L. That is high mineral content, and it can leave scale in aerators and cartridges. Clearing the aerator is a small chore that often restores flow. If a faucet clogs with grit repeatedly, call us so we can check the supply lines for debris.
When we replace a faucet, we check the supply lines, shutoff valves and sink connections at the same time. Replacing only the faucet and leaving a seized valve behind is a short-term fix. Choose a faucet with a solid brass body and ceramic cartridge if you want something that lasts.
Water will not stop running?
Call the 24/7 line. We will tell you which valve to close and whether the main shutoff is the quickest way to stop it.
Showerheads and shower valves
Showerhead leaks are among the simplest repairs, and often only need thread tape and a new washer. A head that drips between showers usually means worn cartridge seals behind the wall. Low flow can be mineral buildup in the nozzles. Soaking the head in vinegar often clears it. If the trouble is the valve itself, the cartridge can be replaced without tearing out tile if the trim kit allows.
Outdoor spigots in cold weather
Spigots that leak inside the wall after a freeze need attention before the next cold snap. If water runs inside the house when the spigot is on, turn it off and call. A frost-free hose bib is a common upgrade, and the design criteria for North Salt Lake list a winter design temperature of 8 degrees F, so disconnecting hoses in autumn matters.
Signs the fixture needs a plumber
- The handle will not fully stop the flow.
- Water appears under the sink or inside the cabinet.
- A drip persists after you replace the washer or aerator.
- Hot and cold water mix unpredictably in the shower.
- The wall or ceiling near a tub or shower looks stained or soft.
- A shutoff valve under the sink will not turn.
- Corrosion or green buildup shows on the connections.
What affects the price of a faucet repair
We give a clear price before work starts. These are the factors that count:
- Whether a cartridge or small part fixes it or the whole valve body must change.
- Wall access, since a shower valve behind tile takes more labor than a sink faucet.
- Supply lines and shutoff valves that need replacing at the same visit.
- Fixture quality if you want a new faucet, and whether you supply it or we do.
- The time of the call, as after-hours dispatch is quoted clearly before anyone is sent.
Homeowners insurance typically covers sudden and accidental water damage, not a faucet that wore out. If water got into a wall or cabinet, ask your insurer what applies. If the leak is inside a wall and you cannot see the source, our leak detection crew can trace it. Homes near the Woods Cross line are served the same way, as the Woods Cross page explains.
Safety steps and code for shutoffs
Utah adopts the 2024 International Plumbing Code (IPC) effective July 1, 2026, and fixture work that replaces or alters supply piping falls under it. Like-for-like cartridge and washer swaps generally do not need a permit, but a new shutoff or relocated supply line can. Before any faucet work, close the stop valve under the sink, and if it will not close, shut the main valve and call. Open the faucet afterward to release pressure and check for drips.
Frequently asked questions
Yes. The line is answered 24/7, including holidays. Tell the dispatcher whether the water is still running and whether you could close the shutoff valves.
Usually yes for the moment. Close the valves under the sink or the main valve, then call to fix the cause.
The seat inside may be worn or pitted. Replacing the washer alone will not seal against a rough surface.
Yes. We replace cartridges, stems and diverters, and we tell you if the wall must be opened.
If the body is sound, a cartridge or O-ring repair is typically less costly. If it is corroded or parts are gone, replacement is the better value.
Shut the water to the spigot if you can. We repair or replace outdoor spigots, and frost-free models help in winter.
Replacing a fixture in the same location normally does not. New piping or relocated fixtures do, through the Building Department at 10 E Center Street.